Three Local Chefs Named to Food & Wine's Best New Chefs in America

Goldee's BBQ continues to make smoke rings in the barbecue world. Chance Townsend

Audio By Carbonatix

[
        {
          "name": "Air - MediumRectangle - Inline Content - Mobile Display Size",
          "component": "18855504",
          "insertPoint": "2",
          "requiredCountToDisplay": "2",
          
          "watchElement": ".fdn-content-body",
          "astAdList": [
            {
              "adType": "rectangle",
              "displayTargets": "mobile"
            }
          ]
        },{
          "name": "Editor Picks",
          "component": "17105533",
          "insertPoint": "4",
          "requiredCountToDisplay": "1",
          
          "watchElement": ".fdn-content-body",
          "astAdList": [
            {
              "adType": "rectangle",
              "displayTargets": "desktop|tablet"
            },{
              "adType": "rectangle",
              "displayTargets": "desktop|tablet|mobile"
            }
          ]
        },{
          "name": "Inline Links",
          "component": "18349797",
          "insertPoint": "8th",
          "startingPoint": 8,
          "requiredCountToDisplay": "7",
          "maxInsertions": 25
        },{
          "name": "Air - MediumRectangle - Combo - Inline Content",
          "component": "17105532",
          "insertPoint": "8th",
          "startingPoint": 8,
          "requiredCountToDisplay": "7",
          "maxInsertions": 25,
          
          "watchElement": ".fdn-content-body",
          "astAdList": [
            {
              "adType": "rectangle",
              "displayTargets": "desktop|tablet"
            },{
              "adType": "rectangle",
              "displayTargets": "desktop|tablet|mobile"
            }
          ]
        },{
          "name": "Inline Links",
          "component": "18349797",
          "insertPoint": "8th",
          "startingPoint": 12,
          "requiredCountToDisplay": "11",
          "maxInsertions": 25
        },{
          "name": "Air - Leaderboard Tower - Combo - Inline Content",
          "component": "17105535",
          "insertPoint": "8th",
          "startingPoint": 12,
          "requiredCountToDisplay": "11",
          "maxInsertions": 25,
          
          "watchElement": ".fdn-content-body",
          "astAdList": [
            {
              "adType": "leaderboardInlineContent",
              "displayTargets": "desktop|tablet"
            },{
              "adType": "tower",
              "displayTargets": "mobile"
            }
          ]
        }
      ]

Today Food & Wine announced its 36th annual list of Best New Chefs in America. This year's class has 13 new culinarians, the largest group yet, representing the future of flavor and cooking across the U.S.

The selection of Best New Chefs starts by following leads from Best New Chef alumni, food writers, cookbook authors and other culinary dignitaries. Food & Wine editors and writers then scout the country and dine at hundreds of restaurants, where they assess the food, people, space and restaurant community.

Locally, that included three chefs at Goldee's BBQ. Jonny White, Jalen Heard and Lane Milne have been friends since their school days in Arlington. As the feature in Food & Wine explains, after school they headed to Austin to work and learn from the best, splitting time at Franklin Barbecue, Valentina’s, La Barbecue, Micklethwait and Banger's Sausage House and Beer Garden.

They learned everything they could, made feasts on their days off and saved enough money to open Goldee's in Fort Worth in 2020. From the article, the goal at Goldee's, according to White, is "no weak spots on the tray." Each day before opening — which they only do on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays — the three sit down together, each with a tray of food. Weak links are tossed. Over-salted slaw? Bye-bye.

click to enlarge

Line at Goldee's.

Angie Quebedeaux

Lines start early at Goldee's on the weekend, so if you're planning a trip, be sure to bring a chair. People typically start queuing up at around 6 a.m. Something else addressed in the article is how much food they make: they don't want to overwork themselves, trying to cook through promises they can't keep.

"We don’t push ourselves or our employees or our smokers too hard ..." White tells Food & Wine. "We cook the amount of food that we feel is appropriate, and right now it usually works out to where it hits the end of the line.”

Goldee's has become known for its inventive offerings. Post-oak-kissed brisket creates uncommon allies with offerings like the Texas Thai Lullaby, a brisket sandwich with Thai-inspired flavors, and a Lao sausage made in-house, served with sticky rice and jeow som. Sides like cole slaw and potato salad are what you'd expect at a barbecue spot, but nuanced and elevated. The house-baked bread is worth the wait alone.

The article is a great read about how three school friends are finding great success in a challenging market, with smoky nuggets of advice for budding restaurateurs (or people, in general — like just treat your staff well).

Goldee's 4645 Dick Price Road, Fort Worth. 817-480-4131. Friday – Sunday, 11 a.m. until sold out.