Celebrity Chef Akira Back’s Eponymous Restaurant Opens for Brunch

Akira Back opened early in May in The Colony, with chef Akira Back at the helm. Many might remember the former snowboarder-turned-restaurateur from his 2008 appearance on Iron Chef America, where he competed against Bobby Flay. That same year, Back's Yellowtail Japanese Restaurant and Lounge opened inside the Bellagio in Las Vegas with great success.

Since then, Back has built an empire that boasts 22 global outposts including locations in Paris and Dubai. In 2017, his Seoul concept, Dosa, was awarded a prestigious Michelin star.

A Dallas location was naturally imminent.

For the last four months, Akira Back restaurant has focused on dinner service, but anyone familiar with local dining knows that for both Dallas and the suburbs, brunch is essential.

Two weeks ago, the concept decided to expand its hours to include a Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The vision includes a sophisticated indoor dining experience with a more casual and lively patio, a live DJ and lounge seating. The restaurant held its inaugural brunch on Sept. 4, and we were invited for a media preview.

While there was no DJ, that didn't detract from the experience. Akira Back’s brunch avoids the traditional sugary, carb-loaded brunch menu with bacon everywhere; you won’t find chicken and waffles at Back’s brunch either.

Instead, the menu begins with cold dishes, including Back’s prized AB tuna pizza, and makes its way to hot dishes and sushi.  Dishes are served family-style but in smaller portions. We began with the AB Tuna Pizza, which is not at all what the name implies. It is a crisp tortilla with a light sweeping of umami aioli topped with a thin layer of raw tuna. A drizzle of white truffle oil and a garnish of micro shiso tops the tuna. The aioli and oil make this dish. One pizza, about the size of an outspread hand, serves four. This dish is a good way to expand the palate of someone who is hesitant to try raw fish.
The second course was yellowtail sashimi served in a pool of citrus soy sauce on dinnerware bearing Back’s mother’s artwork, which also adorns the walls and ceiling of the restaurant. Each piece of sashimi is topped with tomato salsa and a thin slice of serrano with cilantro on the side. Back suggests topping the fish with the herb for a burst of flavor. It’s light, fresh and flavorful without being overwhelming. Plus, it's not taxing on the waistline.

And, of course, we tried a couple of cocktails. Golden Sunrise is a mixture of melon liqueur, sake vermouth, yellow chartreuse, yuzu, lime, basil and prosecco. It was earthy without being pungent. Momo Kajitsu comes with a wedge of branded lemon peel bearing Back’s initials. Gin, sake vermouth, yuzu liqueur, strawberry, peach, lime and soda water mix to create a smooth, semi-sweet and crisp refreshment.

The cocktail menu also includes three mocktails, making Akira Back a destination for parties that include both drinkers and nondrinkers. Sake flights are served along with cards that explain each glass. For hot food, we tried Jidori Chicken Karaage, a brunch exclusive. The lightly breaded Japanese-fried chicken thighs are served with mentaiko aioli and cilantro sesame aioli. This is a great option for those new to Japanese fare.

An oyster trio and Korean-fried chicken are also Sunday brunch exclusives.  To top off the meal, we chose the restaurant's most popular sushi roll, The Perfect Storm. The $24 roll includes sushi staples shrimp tempura, spicy tuna and cucumber. Atop the roll is a lightly seared salmon belly aburi with a drizzle of chipotle aioli. The roll sits over a light mango salsa. Skip the soy sauce here, as it overpowers the roll’s more delicate flavors.  No meal is complete without a treat. The AB Cigar is served from what looks like a cigar box and is made with lucuma mousse and a chocolate brownie encased in a dark chocolate, cigar-shaped mold with cocoa nibs resembling ashes. It's rich without being overbearing, and one is perfect for two people.

Staying true to fine dining, a brunch for two at Akira Back can easily set you back $200. But if you have the disposable income, it’s the perfect option for a day date, business entertaining or simply a delicious alternative to the gut-busting brunches to which Dallas has grown accustomed.

Akira Back, 5765 Grandscape Blvd., The Colony, 5 – 10 p.m. Tuesday – Thursday; 5 – 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. – 3 p.m. Sunday; closed Monday.