No, the scheduling problem is that of their neighbor, Cattleack Barbecue. Cattleack is just 1,800 feet as the crow flies from Crossbuck, or a 3-minute drive between the two as you wind through the industrial parks of far North Dallas and Farmers Branch. Although Cattleack owner Todd David says his two-days-a-week operation is a function of how much he wants to work, the side effect is that it drives up demand, a textbook case of smoky FOMO that we succumb to regularly. When Cattleack is open, it beckons.
We powered through that fear of missing out on a recent Thursday to give Crossbuck its due.
Crossbuck's owner, chef and pitmaster, Tim McLaughlin, got his start at Le Cordon Bleu in Scottsdale, Arizona. He moved to Texas in 2008 and immersed himself in all things smoke, including a sojourn at Kreuz Market in Lockhart, Texas. A few years later he helped open Lockhart Smokehouse in the Bishop Arts District, along with two other locations in Plano and Arlington.
For Crossbuck BBQ, he partnered with chef-pitmaster Damian Avila, who also worked at Lockhart Smokehouse, to explore options "beyond Central Texas style BBQ," according to their website, "infusing the wide array of tastes that America has to offer."
A Two-Meat Plate
On our arrival, several tables were already full, patrons hands-deep into their barbecue lunches, but we were pleased to see just one person in front of us waiting to order. The wait over at Cattleack is part of the experience, but if you ever show up and find no line, you should also buy as many lottery tickets as your wallet permits.Crossbuck's dining room is part barbecue restaurant, part sports bar. There are plenty of wooden tables and booths to accommodate diners, and the requisite beer signs, photos and tchotchkes adorn the walls. But there are also four big-screen TVs that draw the eye no matter where you sit indoors.
There are a dozen or so tables outside on Crossbuck's spacious patio should your barbecue-eating preferences lean al fresco. On the menu front, Crossbuck urges customers to order by the plate instead of by the pound. A tray includes around a half pound of protein, two sides and a house-made roll that's baked on-site daily.
Normally, we'd avail ourselves of a two-meat combination, but at first glance, that wasn't an option at Crossbuck. There was a "Big Boy" tray that promised two medium portions of meat and two sides, but it honestly sounded like a lot of food for one person and was $31.99. Instead, we ordered a brisket tray ($18.89), then added a small side of pork belly burnt ends for $8 more.
It's not readily apparent, but there's a small note at the top of Crossbuck's menu board that says "Looking for a two meat plate? Just go 1/2 and 1/2." Our assumption here is that you could order half portions of two meats, then your two sides. We kind of wish we'd seen that when ordering, and our order taker didn't proffer that option while we pondered the menu. Next time, we'll know.
We also weren't offered an option between lean and moist brisket, so our tray arrived with lean slices piled high into a paper boat. Crossbuck's lean brisket is quite lean, and our first thought was it was light on bark. The slices were juicy and tender, and the bits of bark we did get were quite good — we just wanted more of it. Again, we assume there's moist brisket to be had, but the onus is on you to pipe up and make your intentions known.
The same lack of bark befalls the pork belly burnt ends. Again, there's a good flavor profile going on, with a sweet sauce that mixes in zings of peppery heat. And while the cubes of pork were tender enough, the lack of bark left us thinking of them more as "smoked pork belly cubes" rather than legitimate burnt ends.
Crossbuck's sides, on the other hand, are rock solid. The baked beans have chunks of beef mixed in, and a savory and rich flavor that kept drawing us back for more forkfuls. Meanwhile, the mac and cheese is a winner, with pasta shells that soak up plenty of cheesy sauce, and the cup is topped with freshly grated cheese when it hits your tray. Crossbuck also wins points for the house-made rolls, which shame the generic slices of white bread from most barbecue joints.
Crossbuck hits a lot of high marks in our book. In addition to making barbecue available across large swaths of the day, the restaurant is a comfortable spot to post up with some smoky fare and a group of friends. There's also beer and canned wine available, as well as a few boozy slushes.
On Sundays from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., they throw mimosas and eggs into the mix with a breakfast and brunch menu. Tortillas are stuffed with eggs, homemade salsa and brisket or smoked bacon; bloody marys are on offer in addition to mimosas and the regular drink menu.
We're looking forward to another visit where we can sample more of the menu, now that we have a better grasp on the ordering process. If the long lines at Cattleack don't mesh with your schedule, Crossbuck offers a suitable barbecue option nearby that will fill your cravings.
Crossbuck BBQ, 4400 Spring Valley Road, Farmers Branch. Monday – Tuesday, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.; Wednesday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.
