First Look: Evan’s Meat Market Opens in Highland Park

Evan’s Meat Market is an authentic new butcher shop at The Shops at Highland Park. This locally owned store was opened in early 2023 by an enthusiastic and passionate owner named — you guessed it —  Evan.

Recognizing that the notoriously challenging protein business is dominated by large, multinational meat packers with little connection to the end-user, proprietor Evan Meagher saw an unfulfilled need in the Highland Park and Turtle Creek neighborhoods. He was inspired to introduce his brand of old-school local butchery to the area.
As the industry leans increasingly toward factory farming and laser-cut steaks, there is a growing demand among consumers for greater transparency in the supply chain. Simply put, people want to know where their dinner is coming from. In addition, the grocery business in general, especially meat, has become increasingly impersonal. Big-box retailers have moved almost entirely to self-service. You have a huge case full of pre-cut steaks, commercially prepared ground beef and pre-packaged chicken to choose from, with no butcher in sight. It might make one wonder.

This brings us back to Meagher and his team of noble "disruptors." While he is relatively new to the food business, he is supported by a small crew of veterans. His primary butcher and culinarian is Mike Lawson, who previously earned a Poultry Science degree at Texas A&M and his chef’s hat at the famed Culinary Institute of America in Hudson Valley, New York.

Lawson's experience spans the full spectrum of the food business, as he was once a production manager for Tyson Foods before his foray into the high-end fine dining scene at Eleven Madison Park in New York and several Dallas hot spots, such as Georgie’s, Terra and Sachet (their neighbor at The Shops).

Equally impressive is Meagher's front-of-house manager, Brer Wyant, who creates a warm and inviting atmosphere where questions are encouraged. He will smoothly steer you to the right item based on your preferences. Similar to Lawson, Brer has been in the food scene for decades.

As for the meat, Meagher prefers prime beef, the top tier of marbling as determined by the USDA. Meagher has a close relationship with Fort Worth Meat Packers, a local processor of beef, pork, lamb and game meats, from which he hand-picks wholesale cuts to bring in. The meat case includes staple items such as boneless New York strip steak and filet mignon — sure crowd pleasers — in addition to Duroc pork chops from a heritage breed of hogs known for their abundant marbling and deep flavor.

An 8-or-so-foot dry ager is proudly displayed behind the register filled with beautifully aged racks of beef ribs. Prime-aged cowboy rib steaks are the pinnacle of all steaks, perfect for the backyard grill. In addition to prime beef, Duroc pork, free-range chicken and domestic lamb, Meagher also offers American Wagyu beef from Texas, comparable in marble, appearance and flavor to Kobe beef of Japan.

Evan’s is much more than just a meat market, however. His expert team also offers a full-service deli experience. His deli meats and bacon are all cured or smoked in-house using locally sourced meats. The pork capicola (aka “gabagool” if you're Tony Soprano), pastrami and smoked turkey, for instance, are perfect for cold cuts. The seasoning or smoke is neither overpowering nor overly salted; it's a cold cut you can feel good about eating.
So far we've covered meat, meat ... and more meat, but don't forget to grab some sides. Round out your meal with Evan’s roasted sweet potatoes, which live up to the term ‘sweet’, or the mac 'n’ cheese, one of the store's most popular items. The green beans come fully cooked: just heat and serve.

Meagher is proud of his Louisiana roots, so a lot of his prepared offerings have a spicy Cajun twist. You'll also find po’ boys, a personal favorite of Meagher and staff.

In addition to the quality of Evan’s food and the meticulous care that goes into product sourcing and preparation, this shop is known for its strong customer-centric identity. Meat markets are often intimidating, loud and noisy, staffed by old hunchbacked butchers who have been standing over a meat block for way too long. But Evan’s approach to customer service and customization enhances the product offerings. Virtually everything is customizable, from the thickness to your steaks and chops, to the spice blend in your roasts.

Whether due to personal preference or dietary restrictions, with enough lead time, Evan’s can prepare your order based on your specific needs. This is truly what differentiates this spot from the big-box stores and online meat purveyors.