Meet Our New Restaurant Crush: Two Mules Cantina at Texican Court

I spend a lot of time looking for interesting restaurants in North Texas, so it's not often that I stumble across one and ask, with a mouth full of brisket taco, "Why don't I know about this place already?"

Two Mules Cantina is a restaurant at Texican Court, a boutique hotel in Las Colinas near the Toyota Music Factory. After seeing Beetlejuice at the recently reopened Alamo Drafthouse, we walked over to this space to try it out after relegating our dinner choice to Google Maps.White stucco buildings surround the large circular driveway and its fountain, like a grand hacienda. Just past the valet is a calming and artful water feature, then the aroma that all hotels give off now (cedar and sandalwood) wafts through the breezeway, signaling to the synapses in your brain that it's time to relax. And just then you spot a small, dimly lit tequila bar to one side. It's hard to get past this point but just keep walking. (Or not. Go with what feels right.)
Just around the corner is a large, sexy pool at the center of the retro hotel, all with a touch of mid-century post-modern charm. A bit quirky with the potential for a lot of fun, this space reminded us instantly of The Belmont, where many great staycations were had.

Alas, we were here only for a post-movie bite and perhaps a drink or seven.

On the other side of a large pebble courtyard, with a couple of fire pits, picnic tables and chairs, we found the restaurant, Two Mules.

Marco Collins is the executive chef for the culinary program for Texican Court and Two Mules. He studied at Brown Culinary, then worked at the French dining institution La Folie in San Francisco before it closed. More recently chef Collins worked at Foxhall Resort in Douglasville, Georgia. He took over the kitchens here in the summer of 2023.
Through large wooden doors and inside Two Mules, more white stucco walls surround the cement floors. Ponchos are placed tidily on the backs of chairs. There are three dining rooms with a bar in the middle; two of the spaces have TVs but the third is a bit more intimate.
We started with a simple appetizer (three dips), a low-risk entry point. The guacamole was fresh, the queso quickly devoured and the salsa was piquant and smoky.

Firmly committed, we asked the server, "What's good here?" He suggested anything off the grill, noting that quail was being smoked right now, so hesitating, he suggested the brisket tacos. Sold.

The menu is pretty tight here with a handful of apps, just eight entrees and three styles of tacos. The menu flirts with Tex-Mex, but it's not who it really is once you start digging. There are some requisite dishes (fajitas, nachos, quesadillas and poblano chicken enchiladas) along with crowd-pleasers that a hotel likely requires, but all with a bit of flair. And the flair is where things get interesting.

The burger comes with a "game blended patty" topped with smoked jalapeno sausage. A smoked pork chop has a mole verde sauce. The chicken-fried steak is topped with a Southern-style roasted jalapeno gravy and serrano and smoked cheddar mashed potatoes. Hungry yet?
Our brisket tacos arrived quickly, with long slices of tender lean brisket wrapped in warm fresh tortillas. At first — because I didn't have my readers on — I thought the brisket was topped with cheddar cheese (gasp). Nope. That's a tangy, creamy slaw, a bit pinkish-orange likely from seasoning (we're guessing). This was a bright surprise and twist on the usual brisket tacos around here.

A bowl of soupy charro beans had a bit of smoke, and its dance partner, a side of rice, was fluffy and good for soaking up the broth.

Chef Collins uses a dry seasoning on his brisket here. We learned he rests (and seasons) his brisket in the refrigerator for 12–24 hours before smoking it over oak — first without then with wrapping — for up to 16 hours, then rests it for 1 to 2 hours before slicing.

Before wrapping up dinner, we ordered another round of drinks (a flawless gimlet with perfect ice shards) and headed to a firepit to sink into a couple of chairs. An acoustic guitar duo sang old hits on the patio, bringing a lovely night together.

We left a bit sad. Like we just met our new crush and weren't sure what to make of it. We didn't want to leave. But we'll likely be back soon.

Happy hour runs Monday – Friday, 4:30 – 6:30 p.m., with $5 beers, margaritas and wine, alongside $6 Old Fashioneds and Moscow Mules. Great chance to scout out your next staycation.

Two Mules, 501 W. Las Colinas Blvd., Irving. Daily, 7 a.m. – midnight.