The long-shuttered spot was the center of my first food memories. There was one across the street from my school and when my parents picked me up late — it was the '80s, so that was fine back then — I'd guilt them into yet another cheese enchilada plate. I've even found the recipe for the candies they hid in the chips. One bite is like sinking into a pool of nostalgia.
It's also fun to argue how Houston and Dallas have different tastes for Tex-Mex. Like how Houston doesn't have On The Border there because it's so inauthentic. Can't argue that point, and despite North Texas supporting dozens of OTBs, we also have our share of solid Tex-Mex.
So, the idea of a "Houston Tex-Mex institution" moving here generated excitement. Eater Houston names El Tiempo Cantina an essential Tex-Mex spot, and the Houston Chronicle crowned it best of the best Tex-Mex restaurant and several other titles this year. Really.
You don't realize you're in an old baseball stadium until you notice the windows are the old arches.
Lauren Drewes Daniels
Choctaw Tex-Mex
El Tiempo is built into the side of Choctaw Stadium that faces the new Loews Hotel. The area was formerly a concourse of the old Rangers stadium; it's a full brick-and-mortar restaurant space with no signs of peanuts or cracker jacks. The notable arches around the stadium serve as windows to the restaurant. We're excited to see this build-out adding to the entertainment district that encompasses three stadiums, two hotels and the convention center. It serves as a great option for out-of-towners to check out our state's venerable Tex-Mex cuisine.In theory.
On a recent Saturday night, we were one of about six parties at the restaurant. Parking is pretty easy at the lot next to the stadium (at the northeast corner) — on non-game days, anyway.
We obviously started with chips and salsa and instantly when the creamy green salsa hit the table, Ninfa's came to mind. Sarah Blaskovich at The Dallas Morning News reported the restaurant has Ninfa's roots, another spot born in Houston. The red salsa is served warm and, with the just-delicate-enough chips, could have been dinner alone. Perfection.
Margaritas took a while to come out but were worth the wait. There's a bevy of options, from mango to skinny for about $12 each.
Literally giddy, a decision was made to skip all other appetizers to make sure we weren't full when the mains arrived. Maybe there were some irrational expectations here.
The Las Vegas plate has a little bit of everything. The stuff in the middle is chicken.
Lauren Drewes Daniels
A chicken fajita enchilada came topped with El Tiempo's celebrated Texas red chili, a thin red sauce dotted with ground beef, over a bright orange cheese sauce. A one-enchilada plate is $17.99, two is $22.99. With the same uninspired rice and beans, this was mediocre fare at best.
We ordered more chips and salsa halfway through our meal.
A plate of beef tacos came on freshly baked tortillas, which was nice. But again, this is an overall bland and disappointing feast.
With all of that said, our server could not have been more pleasant. Everyone at the restaurant was attentive and friendly.
Bottom Line
The bill for four adult drinks and three plates (including a one-enchilada plate) was over $130 with tip, and in no way did we at any point feel like we achieved that amount of culinary satisfaction or greatness. There are plenty of places within a stone's throw of the stadium that are better at half the price. Want names? Sure: Los Jarros, Gilberto's — heck, even Candlelight Inn.So, welcome to town, Houston.
El Tiempo Cantina, 1011 Nolan Ryan Expressway, Arlington. Sunday – Thursday, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.; Saturday – Sunday, 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.
