Goodwins on Greenville Avenue Is an Instant Classic

“Don’t overthink it; it’s the best thing on the menu,” said our waiter.

We snuck into Goodwins on Greenville Avenue early one evening before a show, scored a pair of bar seats and asked our server for some recommendations for a quick dinner. He’s told us about The Underhill ($24), Goodwins' take on the ubiquitous French dip. Having tasted most of the menu, it's his favorite dish.

Goodwins is the brainchild of Austin Rodgers, who owns Alamo Club and Mayer’s Garden; Jeff Bekavac, formerly the culinary director at local favorites Cane Rosso and Neighborhood Services; and David Cash, owner of Smoky Rose. Goodwins aims to be a neighborhood bar and grill, casual yet classy with a menu packed with tasty bangers. Frankly, it’s fun as hell.

Start with a drink. Goodwins' polished cocktail list stretches over 13 options, and if wine is more your speed, Goodwins sports an impressive list of offerings by the glass or bottle (an on-staff sommelier can provide guidance).

Beverages in hand, we started with cheese beignets ($12). If cheese is your jam, these bite-sized nuggets of fried gruyere, Parmesan and white cheddar are going to be your newest infatuation. A light batter encases the cheese, which is sprinkled with parmesan and served up with – what else? — a cheesy dipping sauce. Cheese-on-cheese action ensues, and if the melty bites were any more addictive, they’d be regulated by the FDA.

While we can’t yet vouch for our server's claim that the Underhill is the best thing on the menu, we can confirm that it’s seriously delicious. How many steak sandwiches are cooked to your preferred doneness? Ours arrived a perfect medium, steak delectably tender, and the combo of melted provolone and caramelized onions provided the perfect compliment to the beef. There’s au jus for dipping, but the sandwich honestly doesn’t need it, and you’d probably dribble something on your shirt anyway. We found ourselves dipping the fries into the au jus more than the sandwich.
Our dining companion, who wanted something a little lighter, went with Goodwins' classic Caesar, upgraded with tender seasoned chicken breast ($21). Classic is the right word, because Goodwins take includes salty anchovies in the romaine blend (you can opt to forgo the anchovies if you wish). Either way, the salad is generously sized for a meal on its own and smartly executed.

Goodwins' location on Greenville Avenue once housed the Blue Goose Cantina, but any hints of the blue and yellow Tex Mex spot have long since been scrubbed. In its place, Goodwins exudes Hollywood-style charm. From the moment you pass under the Art Deco neon sign, it's as if you're on set in a David Lynch movie. The front bar is bright and airy, and the main dining room behind it strikes a warmer, cozier tone. Tucked into the back sliver of the restaurant is the Goose Bar, an homage to the previous tenant, where lights are lower still, the textures rich and moody, and cocktails and conversations continue to flow freely.

For now, Goodwins is a dinner-only operation, but lunch service should begin later this summer. And it’s already wildly popular; we couldn’t score a Saturday night reservation that worked with our concert-going plans, but were able to post up in the bar shortly after the restaurant opened. If that’s your plan, arrive early like we did because the space fills up quickly.

The popularity is rightly earned. With tasty and affordable food paired with an entertaining vibe, Goodwins is already an instant classic that has us looking forward to many return visits.

Goodwins, 2905 Greenville Ave. Sunday – Wednesday, 5–10 p.m.; Thursday – Saturday, 5–11 p.m.