Fresh Look: Twelve Years In, And Shinsei's Sushi Still Shines

It’s easy to get caught up in everything new going on in Dallas dining; we’re certainly complicit in that addiction to shiny new things. But it’s good to remember that Dallas is full of restaurants serving splendid fare that have, sometimes, slipped our minds.

We were reminded of this recently while studying up on Dea, the new Italian restaurant from Tracy Rathbun and Lynae Fearing that will take over the former Fireside Pies space on Inwood Road. Rathbun and Fearing already run Lovers Seafood and Shinsei, and Dea will give them a trio of restaurants all on the same block. We stole a look at Dea’s new dining room, and a more formal first look will be coming soon now that it's open for business. But while we were in the neighborhood, we popped in for dinner at Shinsei, where we hadn't dined in some time.

That absence is a shame because Shinsei has been turning out high-quality sushi and Pan-Asian dishes for more than 12 years. While it’s been quite a while since we’ve darkened Shinsei’s door, the same can’t be said for the locals, who treat Shinsei as their neighborhood watering hole that just so happens to double as a glossy upscale restaurant.
On our recent Monday visit, the dining room was packed. You can make a reservation, but it's also possible to nab a seat at the sushi counter or at the upstairs or downstairs bars. Mondays also mean half-price on many bottles of wine on Shinsei’s wine list, which likely drives people in the door too. But we also learned there’s a list of food specials that change every other week, and that’s where we chose to do some exploring. Most specials hail from the sushi bar under the guidance of Shuji Sugawara, Shinsei’s sushi chef whose resume includes stops at Tei Tei Robota and the recently closed Teppo.

Whether your tastes lie with raw or cooked, there’s likely a gem to be found. We tried a blackened salmon roll ($20): a flawlessly flaky salmon was topped with paper-thin lemon slices and placed on a roll with cornmeal-crusted oyster, avocado and asparagus. The crunchiness from the asparagus and cornmeal played nicely against the delicate salmon.
On the raw side, we tried the Esping roll ($22), which has been on the specials for several weeks due to popular demand. It’s a roll of salmon and hamachi yellowtail brightened with dill and lemon zest, with avocado for richness. Compared to the blackened salmon, the Esping roll tastes much lighter and cleaner, and the two rolls made for a great combination of flavors. Throw in a side of tempura cauliflower imbued with spicy gochujang sauce ($12) off the regular menu, and our meal hit all the savory, citrusy and spicy notes.

Shinsei’s specials change every other Friday, so your experience may be a little different but no less enjoyable. Spots like Shinsei remind us that Dallas dining may have its new favorites, but our old standbys are still here to impress, and we’re in for all of it.

Shinsei, 7713 Inwood Road, Monday – Thursday, 5 p.m. – 10 p.m., Friday – Saturday: 5 p.m. – 11 p.m.