Good Times and Good Food at Jamaica Gates in Arlington

Along the Bob Marley poster-lined walls at Jamaica Gates in Arlington is a framed photo of Guy Fieri, who visited here about a decade ago for his Food Network show, Diners, Drive-ins and Dives. We checked in again recently for a fresh look and found that the spot is still thriving, well into the night.

Teno Tapper’s family opened Jamaica Gates 14 years ago. We chatted with him about his family’s story while he fixed us one of his off-menu cocktail specialties.

“We migrated from Port Antonio, Jamaica, in 1992," Tapper says. "My mother, Barbara Allen, who is also executive chef, was the oldest of six children and has been cooking since she was 12. She wrote in her diary that it was her dream to open a restaurant.”
Allen’s culinary prowess and time-honored recipes paved the way for that dream to come true. Tapper’s brother, Errol Byles, and sister-in-law, Michelle Byles, are co-owners, making this a full family-run business.

As for being featured on Guy Fieri's show, it was a highlight for the family.

“Seeing our restaurant on his show was my mother’s proudest moment," Tapper said. "That’s when we knew we were on our way."

When many of us think of Jamaican food, odds are jerk chicken is the first thing to come to mind. And who can blame us? It’s iconic fare. But the Jamaican spectrum of gastronomy encompasses much more. For instance, ackee and saltfish (the beloved national dish), braised oxtail, Escovitch fish, and curried goat and shrimp are also essential dishes, all of which you can (and should) get right here at Jamaica Gates in Arlington.

That said, we’d be remiss in visiting one of D/FW’s better Jamaican kitchens without trying the jerk chicken, right?
We started with a simple Caesar salad topped with jerk-seasoned chicken strips and shrimp ($12.92). The one-of-a-kind jerk seasoning is made in-house with a blend of allspice, thyme, cinnamon, nutmeg and Scotch bonnet peppers. This deliciously addictive season is a nuanced orchestra of sweet, salty, smoky and sometimes spicy.

When we visited on a recent Saturday, college football was in full swing on overhead TVs, and being suckers for a fine plate of nachos, we couldn't avoid the jerk nachos ($11.92). Monterrey jack and cheddar cheese are melted over fresh tortilla chips, which is topped with tomato, bell peppers, red onions and chunks of spicy jerk chicken. A common appetizer again elevated to new heights courtesy of the Caribbean-seasoned birds at Jamaica Gates.

Appetizers in hand, it was time for drinks. We ordered a couple of Red Stripes and a very potent rum punch (dark rum, grenadine, lime, orange and pineapple juice). Jamaica Gates hosts live music on the weekends, and that night’s live act was setting up on a small stage just a few feet away.
For our main, we went with the Kingston Trio ($23.92), where diners choose three servings from the following: “Rude boy” jerk chicken (on the bone), jerk pork, braised oxtails, brown stew and curry chicken or goat. We opted for the jerk pork, chicken and oxtail. For the latter, pour the oxtail gravy over the peas and rice that come with it for stellar sides. The platter also came with a side of bright and zesty Jamaican cabbage salad.

Later in the evening, the crowd was treated to a lively, standing ovation-worthy set of reggae fusion. It was a festive atmosphere, with patrons occasionally hitting the dance floor, and somehow we were egregiously included. Let’s pray video of this doesn’t exist.

Jamaica Gates, 1020 Arkansas Lane, Arlington. Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Friday – Saturday 11:30 a.m. – midnight; Sunday Noon – 9 p.m.