Along this particular stretch of Irving Boulevard between Westmoreland Road and Regal Row, there looks to be not much more than commercial truckyards and car lots. If you found yourself hungry in the area, you might think finding a Jack in the Box or the like would be your only hope. With no shade to Jack in the Box's mini churros and curly fries, we're here to tell you it's not.
Stewart's is a tiny, takeout-only breakfast spot sandwiched between two commercial truck lots on Apricot Lane (a most charming name for a street). If you blink, you might miss it. There's one small crooked sign on the side of the road, but it's worth keeping your eyes peeled for. And don't let the exterior fool you: there are some gems inside, including one dish that's particularly perfect for any Texan's morning commute.
The building that houses the restaurant seems to have been around quite a while, or at least long enough to make us wonder whether the antique stove in the entryway used to be part of the original kitchen. We love an antique trinket or tchotchke as much (or more) as the next person, and we enjoyed the sight of the old stove and the knick-knacks that sat on top of it. A small waiting area where you can sit while your order is being prepared has some old school desks that blend right in with the decor.
The menu here is simple, the prices are great and we enjoyed everything we tried, but the dish we've been raving about as being genius? That'd be the cup of biscuits and gravy. We tried one order with bacon (plus another without) and we have to know: Did Stewart's invent biscuits and gravy in a to-go cup? Is this an established thing we've somehow been missing out on our entire lives?
If it is, in fact, an established thing and if you're late to the party like we were, look no further than Stewart's. A liberal portion goes for only $5 with bacon or sausage and $4 without. When we say it’s perfect for any Texan’s morning commute, we mean that they gift you a spoon in your to-go bag. It’s kind of amazing, innovative and we can’t get over it. Now we want to put other typically messy foods in mason jars to eat with spoons in places and contexts we previously thought we couldn’t.
We couldn’t quite put our finger on just what makes the gravy here so good but it had such a nice, smoky flavor. Maybe it’s made with bacon grease. And because the portion is so generous you'll have leftovers that turn into a sort of savory biscuit bread pudding that was just as good the next morning.
On to the breakfast taco: the tortillas are warmed-tossed on the grill and kissed with just enough char before being topped with your choice of bacon or sausage, eggs, cheese, potatoes, beans and salsa. The bacon is served a touch on the not-so-crispy side, so if you’re more of a near-burnt bacon kind of person, you might opt for the sausage instead. It was a pretty solid breakfast taco, and the portion was as generous as the biscuit dish for only $3.50.
We highly recommend getting the salsa. It added a ton of flavor without kicking us in the face with heat. Overall, if you can find Stewart’s, you can find a great breakfast taco. It’s a cute, no-nonsense spot with quick, friendly service and great prices. What’s not to love, and where else do you have the opportunity to eat biscuits and gravy from a cup with a spoon?
Seriously, if there are other places where biscuits and gravy is served in cups with spoons, please let us know so we can compile a list.
Stewart’s, 3700 Irving Blvd. Monday – Friday, 5:15 a.m. – noon.