Mar y Sol Cocina Latina, a Latin American restaurant in Uptown, became Dallas' most talked-about eatery six weeks after opening. The "prep fees" heard around the world made the new restaurant infamous. The Observer turned into Inspector Gadget to solve the margarita whodunnit.
Mar y Sol, ocean and sun, is inescapable. Influencers flock to the flashy new restaurant. Makeshift detectives swarm the bar. Reservations during prime dining hours are fully booked. But is Mar y Sol more than a selfie station with alleged hidden fees? The Observer snagged the last available brunch reservation recently to find out.
The restaurant comes to Dallas courtesy of restaurateur Alberto Lombardi, whose restaurant portfolio includes Dallas staples Regines Lounge, KĀI, and Toulouse Cafe and Bar, all under the Lombardi Family Concepts name. Mar y Sol, which opened July 20, is the portfolio’s latest addition.
One thing is undeniable: the aesthetics are impeccable. The sexy restaurant takes one of its inspiration from Mexico’s vacation hotspot Tulum. The international award-winning design firm Filipao Nunes Arquitectos designed it. It is a complete 180 from the building’s former tenant, Abacus. Mar y Sol is a portal.
A wood-covered entryway with a large, photo-perfect mirror channels diners into the restaurant. The neutrally colored dining room is bright during the day and moody at night. Pale-colored branches crown the bar. Rattan light pendants, clay pottery and linen abound, evoking a beach-side, air-conditioned Mexican resort.
Mar y Sol was packed, as we expected. A word to the wise: visit in groups. Two-top tables are crammed together. We could hear our neighbors' conversations clearly over the Bachata playlist. We even bumped elbows a time or two. Groups of three or more had much more wiggle room.
Brunch is available on Sundays only from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. It, like the dinner menu, is inspired by the Latin American diaspora. Executive chef Ty Thaxton's menus reflect Peruvian, Argentine, Brazilian, Mexican and Colombian influences.
We began our meal with cocktails from the tequila-heavy menu. Menu cocktails did not incur fees.
The star of the show is La Diabla ($18). The mango margarita is served in a coupe surrounded by a fence of tumbleweed-like gray material. It is set on fire for effect, a production primed for social media. But, due to space limits, we decided to go with a simpler order. Instead, we ordered the fizzy and refreshing Hibiscus Dragon ($14) and a tart-lacking pineapple pisco sour ($16).
To share, we ordered duck flautas ($18) as appetizers. For main courses, we went with the Lechon and Shrimp Chaufa ($21) and patatas bravas and eggs ($15). Both came out from the kitchen at the same time after a 30-minute wait. Our server, who never let our water cups run dry, kindly apologized.
The flautas are crispy with a tender duck carnitas filling. The guajillo chili salsa is flavorful, not spicy.
The patatas bravas and eggs are carb-heavy. Mar y Sol is generous with the potatoes, but the chorizo was lacking. The tablespoon of chorizo we received seemed more like a garnish than a protein for the plate. The carbs' intensity washed out the charred tomato, chimichurri and brava sauce.
The Lechon and Shrimp Chaufa is a refined Peruvian fried rice. The kitchen serves the dish in a stoneware bowl with a fried egg and scallions plated on top. Servers slide the egg and scallions on top of the fried rice and mix the egg and scallions in for you. What should feel like tableside service leans invasive. Yolk breaking is personal. At a minimum, a warning would suffice.
The chaufa is generous with the rice, but the diced house-smoked pork belly’s flavor drowns in it.
We sipped Mar y Sol’s version of an old fashioned, El Sabio ($17), instead of dessert. The añejo-based cocktail is served alongside lit palo santo.
Cameras flashed as sparkler-topped Piña Colada Crème Brûlée ($12) and Seis Leches cakes ($12) made their way through the dining room. Celebrants were ecstatic. Their expressions solidify Mar y Sol's space in Dallas’ dining landscape.
Mar y Sol is an event restaurant. It's the go-to spot for a youthful first date, girls' night out, birthday or bachelorette or bachelor party dinner. It’s fun, flirty and transportive. You may not call home about the food. The drinks might incur fees, but you'll get plenty of shots for your social media grid.
Mar y Sol, 4511 McKinney Ave. Monday – Wednesday, 4–10 p.m.; Thursday, 4–11 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 4 p.m. – midnight; Sunday, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.