Pillar, an American Bistro, Will Occupy Former Boulevardier Location in Bishop Arts

French bistro Boulevardier in Bishop Arts was a culinary staple and community pillar during its 12-year run. When it closed in April, the loss was felt across the Dallas restaurant scene. Peja Krsrtic, the chef behind Lakewood Vietnamese fusion spot (and one of our Top 100 Restaurants) Mot Hai Ba, aims to erect a new pillar in its place.

“It’s an American bistro,” Krstic tells the Observer. “And what is American food? It’s everything that people have brought in over the past 400 years. [...] It gives me an opportunity to explore different techniques and worldly cuisines.”

The name of Krstic’s new bistro, Pillar, is a one-word manifesto of what he hopes to bring to Oak Cliff.

Though the announcement of Pillar feels closely linked to the recent closing of Boulevardier, of which Krstic was openly a longtime admirer, both the concept and the word itself have been on Krstic's mind for a while, going back to a vacation he took with his family to Key West where he encountered a boat named Pilar.

This was a reference to the feminine Spanish name, but the sound of it inspired Krstic.

“I think Pillar is actually a good name. A solid, concrete name for a restaurant,” he says. “Especially for me, after all these years working in this industry. [...] I think after almost two decades of cooking here, I can call my restaurant Pillar. And that is exactly what I want it to be.”

He believes that his experience at Mot Hai Ba, which has served Lakewood for 11 years, has equipped him to create a similar legacy in Oak Cliff.

“I know how to combine something for the neighborhood where you can come out two nights a week and be able to afford it,” he explains, alluding to both his work at Mot Hai Ba and his vision for Pillar. “And it's also one of those things where you can dress up and celebrate your birthday or anniversary.”

Krstic views the concept of American cuisine as an opportunity to explore and experiment with the food of every culture present in America. Pillar’s menu will reflect that.

“You can expect to see bistro-style dishes, and what I mean by that is slightly larger dishes,” he says. “We’re going to have some steaks. We're going to have some fish. [...] And then obviously utilizing some techniques and different things from other cuisines that I find very good as a backbone for creating good flavor.”

The menu is still in the early stages of development, but there are a few things Krstic can guarantee we’ll see.

“I'm definitely going to have meatballs on the menu,” he says. “Usually, we see meatballs as an appetizer or in a pasta. I want an entree that makes you say, ‘Oh my God. Let's just eat these meatballs.”

Krstic’s longtime love of desserts will be honored as well.

“One thing customers can expect at Pillar is to have beautiful, nice desserts. Bistro-style desserts,” he says. “I have this chocolate cake at Mot Hai that’s become a cult dessert. I think we're going to have the same chocolate cake over here just because it's just wonderful.”

Though Pillar will be a shiny new addition to Dallas’ dining scene, Krstic wants to bring an old-fashioned sensibility to it that will almost make you believe it’s been there forever.

“Me and my wife and my kid spend a lot of time in antique shops,” he says. “Our house is filled with old things. We like old things like, you know, spirits in that sense. Something that carries a certain energy. That's what we want to do with Pillar.”

Creating a friendly and familiar atmosphere is another strength Krstic says he brings to the table.

“You have to know how to treat people,” he says. “They have to feel comfortable. I've learned those things over the years.”

He pauses for a moment before giving an apt closing statement.

“And that's pretty much it,” he says. “I don't like to talk too much. I just roll up my sleeves and work.”

Pillar is projected to open this fall at 408 N. Bishop Ave., No. 108.