First Look: Omar Flores' New Seafood Spot Even Coast

Omar Flores already seems to have a handle on fried chicken (Whistle Britches) and Tex-Mex (Muchados). For his newest project, Flores has jumped feet first into seafood, steaks and pasta with Even Coast, which recently opened in Addison. Even Coast aims to "bring together the best of the land and sea under one roof." It's not a unique idea, but we were excited to see Flores' take on the challenge, so we popped in on a recent Friday to have a look.

Even Coast's space is warm and inviting. We were able to grab two seats at the bar, which wraps around three sides and separates the dining room. Soft lighting and warm furnishings abound, and a wall of windows looks out onto a spacious patio.
Even Coast is doing yeoman's work with an impressive wine and cocktail menu. Wines by the glass and bottle are plentiful, and there's even a map on the menu to help patrons learn the various regions. There are also more than a dozen house cocktails on offer; the Old Fashioned ($16), made with Amador bourbon and brown sugar and garnished with a dehydrated orange, hit the mark nicely.
We'll need to make another visit to partake of Even Coast's steaks, but the pasta and seafood we tried were winners right out of the gate. The mafalde pasta ($21) is dressed with a beef and pork Bolognese that tastes like it simmered all day, and is lightened with a whipped herb ricotta.  Even Coast gets a gold star here for pasta that was perfectly al dente, able to hold up to the hearty Bolognese and portioned just right where you don't feel miserable finishing the bowl.

We asked our server for a seafood recommendation from Even Coast's half-dozen offerings. He confidently steered us to the Texas redfish ($36), and we ended up eminently grateful for his wisdom. The redfish itself was a delight, flaky and mild, served lightly blackened then dressed in a tomato-based Creole sauce with bits of andouille sausage, all nestled on a bed of basmati rice. Each bite was a treat, with layers of acid, heat and mild fish playing wonderfully with against other.

We went back to the well for a dessert recommendation, which ended up being the Millionaire's Tart ($15). A chocolate crust gets filled with a layer of caramel, then a dense chocolate pie filling, a dollop of whipped cream and a few crushed macadamia nuts, then another light dusting of cocoa powder. The nuts offer a fun bit of texture, and the chocolate filling is decadent and smooth, but a salty twist might have made the dish even better.

There's a lot more of Even Coast that we'd love to explore. Steaks and chops are all prime beef, sourced from Allen Brothers Ranch. While several cuts skew up-market in price, a 10-ounce hanger steak ($36) might have been our meal had we not been in the mood for pasta. There's an array of oysters and seafood among the appetizers, and Even Coast's Instagram feed recently showed off a burger that looks mighty appetizing.

We're happy to see chef Flores with a new menu that showcases his skills. Even Coast sports a lovely interior, classic surf and turf entrees executed with skill and casually smart service to match. Perhaps the only oddity is that the spot wasn't overwhelmingly busy on the Friday night we visited. We can't imagine any reason for hesitation. Come on in; the water is just fine.

Even Coast, 5463 Belt Line Road, Addison. Sunday, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Monday – Thursday, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.