Former Nobu Chef, Shine Tamaoki, Adds Pearl Sushi to Dallas’ Burgeoning Japanese Scene

Former Nobu chef Shine Tamaoki and business partner Todd Landis are serving authentic sushi based on Japan’s Yamanashi Prefecture with progressive techniques, providing an inviting atmosphere, a takeaway window and monthly omakases.

Drawing from his early years living in Japan and over seven years perfecting sushi at Nobu Dallas, Shine Tamaoki opened his own restaurant, Pearl Sushi, on McKinney Avenue in September. This style of Japanese cuisine holds the current spotlight, with many new and anticipated openings this season, such as Yujo, Anchor Sushi Bar and Kinzo.
There’s an edge of sophistication that radiates throughout Pearl, but it’s anything but pretentious. Experts and sushi novices can both mingle in the rich desaturated tones and nacreous touches. Choose from a variety of seating: patio for al fresco dining, a traditional dining room, a five-seater bar and a lively sushi bar.

There’s no bad place to sit, but to truly experience chef Tamaoki’s passion and vision for Pearl, grab one of the nine seats at the sushi bar. Here it feels as if you're being hosted by close friends as you watch each chef’s expertise and attention to detail, and are guided through each dish.

There's no set start or finish on the menu, aside from the first page of appetizers, allowing diners to chart their own path. Everything on the menu is made in-house with a focus on seasonality. The abundant drink menu offers a variety of sake, a lineup of cocktails, wine and two beers. Our meal started with the sunomono, a Japanese style of ceviche made with salmon belly, snapper and hamachi belly, cherry tomato and cucumber coated in a house-made ceviche sauce. All three varieties of fish are unbelievably tender and fresh, and the lightness of the sauce allows each ingredient to shine. The gooseberry garnish should be saved for last as it’s a pallet cleanser for the next dish.

The menu’s centerfold holds the main event: sushi. There are a few varieties to choose, from simple to more complex. Nigiri and sashimi options range from the beloved ohtoro (the fattiest cut of bluefin tuna), snow crab and wagyu, to more adventurous options like botan (prawn), rai (red snapper) and saba (mackerel). There are also three different styles of maki (rolls): urumaki (“inside out” sushi), hosomaki (one filling) and futomaki (many fillings).

The torched salmon came out flaming, literally. We watched as the chef rolled chopped salmon, avocado, spicy mayo and scallions tightly, then topped it with fresh pieces of sashimi and a dot of yuzu olive oil before gliding a torch across the top. Before presenting, he added a dollop of chili garlic sauce and a garnish of microgreens to bring everything together.

With each bite, a different ingredient shone, each in balance with the rest of the roll. The buttery fish seemed to just melt. We were hesitant to add the pickled ginger, fresh wasabi and soy sauce to it as the roll was a statement on its own, but the trio enhanced rather than overpowered the dish.
Our spicy yellowtail roll was on the simpler side, lightly dressed with fresh wasabi and pickled ginger — the perfect segue to the hot dishes.
The Japanese fish and chips seemed like an intriguing option. After praise from our neighbor at the sushi bar and a recommendation from the chef, it was tough to pass up. Red snapper is fried in a tempura batter with Japanese curry spices and tossed in aonori seaweed flakes, then served with burdock chips, homemade tartar sauce and ponzu mignonette.

Exceptional is an understatement. With subtle but powerful flavors, it was tender and flaky fish directly out of the fryer. The burdock root isn’t anything to shy away from, either. Its nutty/earthy flavor works well with the dish and is served in a way that retains its traditional root shape and texture.
Dessert seemed to be an afterthought and wasn't listed on the menu. However, we found that if you don’t ask, the answer is always no. Options were crepe cake or matcha cake, which is a famous Japanese dessert more formally known as “matcha mont blanc." A small, circular sponge cake base is piled with whipped cream and finished with spaghetti-thin strands of matcha chestnut cream, raspberries and a mini stroopwafel. Typical of Japanese desserts, it’s not too sweet and just enough of a serving to curb a hankering.

Seating inside is limited, so reservations are encouraged. The restaurant is usually full, even on weekdays, and a walk-up table is difficult to come by, especially with the rapidly expanding ensemble of regulars.

Pearl Sushi, 4640 McKinney Ave, No. 130. Tuesday – Sunday, 5–10 p.m.