Señor Oink Is the Tropical Carnitas Party Dallas Needs

Maurico Gallegos, whose other work includes Jefferson Street staples Xayman Cafe and Ayahuasca Cantina, the latter of which was one of Esquire's top 50 New Bars in America in 2024, has opened a new carnitas spot in Farmers Branch. We're admittedly partial to his work.

This spot is neighbors with Roots Southern Table and Radici from chef Tiffany Derry (another personal favorite), as well as Bankhead Brewpub.

With this new location, Gallegos wanted to create a true tropical taqueria that, as the name implies, serves only carnitas, just as you'd find in Mexico. You can go to a taqueria for tacos, a birreria for birria or ... Señor Oink for pig. Staying true to the traditional methods for cooking carnitas, Gallegos shipped in two cazos from Mexico, which are copper pots preferred for their even heat distribution and retention during the long cooking process. These also give pork (piglets in the case of Señor Oink) the proper texture with crispy edges, and impart a unique flavor to the meat. Entire piglets are simmered in the pots and diners can choose from four types of meat: maciza (pork shoulder and butt), cueritos (rind), costilla (rib meat) or buche (stomach).

Chef Leonardo Hernandez, who previously helmed the kitchen at the now-closed Yellow Rosa Cocktaileria in Deep Ellum, is in charge of the entire menu here. As in his previous kitchen, he sticks to traditional dishes and methods often found in Mexico.

Here, the pork is offered in a variety of ways in addition to the tacos, including chicharron (with guacamole) and thick slabs of pork belly, all cooked in rich form in those big copper pots.
The space is bright and clean, with white tiles behind the bar, plus green and hot pink accents over bare concrete in the dining room. It's counter service, so you order at the bar and then grab a seat. The bar is lined with rums, tequilas and whatever else you may need.

Beachside Beverages

The beverage menu is tropical and dangerously seductive. Most drinks are based on house-made frescas and juices. Just as Ayahuasca only serves liquor from Mexico, this bar is curated with intention.

"In all my concepts, the cocktails and back bar must be cohesive and make sense," Gallegos says. "For this project, I’m focusing more on Mexican rum from Michoacán or Oaxaca, beer and agave spirits with a coastal vibe. The cocktail program should be simpler, fruit-forward, vibrant and light — something that cuts through the richness of the carnitas."
For example, take the Santa Paloma with amaro, tequila and Squirt soda. But you should probably start with the Coco and Mar, a frozen rum drink with pineapple, banana and coconut water.

There's a mule, a mezcal and guayaba frozen option as well, and the Morena Caliente has mezcal, coconut liquor, cacao, coffee and Licor 43. Or go for a simple Cuba Tropical with rum, Mexican Coke, salt and lime.

If you're on the clock or just want something to address this heat, there's a menu of aguas frescas and sodas. We got a tepache, a house-made traditional Mexican beverage made from fermented pineapple with hints of ginger. We drank part of it there, then brought the rest home to savor sip after sip, and we might buy a gallon next time. This tepache needs to be a part of a weekend pool party.

Good news: They sell several cocteles by the liter ($25). Pasito Tun Tun brings mezcal, orange liquor, hibiscus, salted honey, lime and habanero bitters; a Leche de Tigre has rum; and a Costa Punch is made with agave vodka.

Pigging Out

There are six styles of carnitas tacos, which we tried and will get to in just a sec. There are also a few appetizers (chicarrons and guac), two lunch specials (a burrito and chilaquiles), one bowl, a torta and flautas sabrosas served in a cup with guacamole and pico de gallo.

We tried three of the six tacos, and this was a formative meal in my (new) carnitas journey. I'd never been in a place that only served carnitas, and liken it to those kids walking through the wardrobe in The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe. It's a whole new world.

The Clasico is dressed simply with pickled onions, cilantro and onions. We added table salsa, and every bite was perfect. I also tried the El Rumber with grilled pineapple ($4.99) and — the favorite — the Guajiro Verde with green sauce, grilled cactus and queso fresco ($4.99). Each was impeccably prepared and unique.

Farmers Branch already has several spectacular restaurants with Radici and Roots, and now, it has a tropical carnitas oasis. From drinks to tacos, Gallegos has once again wooed us.

Señor Oink, 12990 Bee St., Farmers Branch, Monday - Thursday 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.; Friday 11 a.m. - 11 p.m.; Saturday 10 a.m. - 11 p.m.; Sunday 10 a.m. - 9 p.m.