First Look: Sfuzzi's Resurrection Couldn't Be More Timely

A Dallas favorite is back. Sfuzzi, now open in Knox Henderson, has returned for its fourth iteration. The buzzy Italian restaurant was an uptown staple in Dallas in the '80s and '90s and a favorite among Dallas tourists. First opened in 1987, Sfuzzi was both a place for pizza and a place to party. Resurrected nearly seven years after its most recent closure, Sfuzzi maintains a celebratory spirit.
When it first opened, Sfuzzi was an instant hit. By the '90s, the Italian joint had grown from one uptown location to 20 across Dallas-Fort Worth. Despite its popularity, the original owners filed for bankruptcy in the mid-'90s. Sfuzzi would later reopen in 2009 on McKinney Avenue before closing in 2013. They opened again for a third time on Knox Henderson in 2015, but closed after only six months.

In its new Knox Henderson location, in the space previously occupied by Capitol Pub, Sfuzzi’s latest version is spearheaded by Brandon Hays and Phillip Schanbaum of This and That Hospitality, the group behind High Fives, The Whippersnapper and Ferris Wheelers Backyard and BBQ. The new space contains much of the red and black furniture of the original, as well as a large U-shaped bar serving iconic craft cocktails, traditional dining seating on one side of the bar and lounge-style seating on the other, and a large, spacious patio. Peja Kristic, who worked as Sfuzzi’s executive chef from 2011 to 2013, was hired as a consulting chef for the reopening.
Fans of the original Sfuzzi can expect the return of some of the early iterations’ drinks, including the frozen Sfuzzi, a frozen peach bellini made with New Amsterdam vodka ($10). One of these cold concoctions will get you tipsy right away, so if you are wanting something lighter, we recommend the Il Mulo ($12). It's Sfuzzi’s take on the mule, made with rosemary-infused Teremana tequila, Ilegal Joven mezcal, lime, hibiscus and ginger beer. This one is sweet, refreshing and comes served in a tin can, decorated with a sprig of rosemary.

As for food, we started with the beef carpaccio, a circular arrangement of flattened beef cuts garnished with arugula, gorgonzola and pickled onion ($18). Granted, Italian dishes are traditionally big on meats, but the bitterness of the arugula and sharpness of the cheese are what make this plate a flavorful experience. Another great choice is the crispy calamari ($14). With cheap calamari, the breading will slip off with the poke of a fork, but Sfuzzi’s calamari remains intact and savory with each bite and pairs well with their zesty marinara sauce.

The entrée menu maintains most of the dishes from the original Sfuzzi, including their pizzas( $16-$19), their chicken Parmesan ($24) and their pork chop piccata, which comes with a side of saffron risotto ($36).
We opted to try some of the pasta dishes, including the gemelli with Bolognese sauce and shaved Parmesan ($24). The Bolognese pasta is a hearty and filling dish, with the sweet tomato flavor meshing well with the spicy meat. A (somewhat) lighter option is the pesto fusilli, with rosemary chicken and sun-dried tomato ($24).

When we were there, Sfuzzi was packed, with a crowd comprising 20-something partiers, veteran restaurateurs and local celebrities, including a couple from Real Housewives of Dallas.

With low lighting, Sfuzzi feels like one of those Italian restaurants in New York City, where you’d go fill up on pizza and pasta after a taping of Saturday Night Live and before a debauched night at Studio 54 in the ‘90s. At the same time, the team behind Sfuzzi provides a special sense of hospitality that can only be found within Dallas’ restaurant scene.

Sfuzzi’s return could not be any more timely;  it's exactly what we needed to get excited about dining out again post pandemic. Hopefully, the fourth time is the charm.

Sfuzzi. 2401 Henderson Avenue (Knox Henderson). Open 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday.