Review: In Lake Highlands, Goldie’s Continues Dallas’ American Bistro Renaissance

Bistros, like so many of our culinary experiences, are a French invention. Parisian bistros popped up in the 19th century as extensions of apartment buildings, where individual rooms or apartments didn’t have their own kitchens, and tenants paid the landlord for both room and board. The spaces were small, the food traditional and comforting. Before long, landlords realized they could make more money by opening their kitchens to the public.

Stateside, many restaurants that identify as bistros lean on the same French roots to define their cuisine. In Dallas, spots such as Knox Bistro, Toulouse or Lavendou immediately spring to mind. But we shouldn’t constrain the bistro to French food; all we need is a cozy restaurant serving thoughtful, sophisticated fare with a side of polished yet friendly service.

Despite trends of big-money imported restaurants popping up in Dallas, we’re also in a golden age of true American bistros with deep local ties. These are the kinds of places where you can eat on the regular and don't require special occasions to enjoy. The Grape was a Dallas icon for decades, and in the same building, Sister follows the same path, albeit with a menu that skews Mediterranean. Just down Greenville Avenue, newcomer Goodwin’s is already wildly popular and will soon add lunch service to meet demand. In Oak Cliff, Swank (nee Beckley 1115) may sport a new name, but it offers the same high-quality food and service we’ve come to adore.

In Lake Highlands, Goldie’s is the latest example of Dallas’ bistro renaissance. Goldie’s is the brainchild of Dallas restaurant veterans Brandon Hays and Brittni Clayton, and their combined years of experience have birthed a cozy gem that is everything a bistro should be.
You like your restaurants on the small side? Goldie’s will be right up your alley. The tiny bar seats just eight patrons, and the main dining room has seats for around two dozen diners. Duck around the bar and an enclosed patio has seating for another 40 customers. Booths and chairs are upholstered in comfortable red velvet, and the lighting is bright where you need it and moody where you don’t. The downside of a small space, however, is that if you’d like to dine in a particular time slot, reservations should be considered mandatory, especially on the weekends.

We love our bistros to have smart service without feeling stuffy, and Goldie’s balances this with poise. On our first visit, we had questions about two of the red wines from Goldie’s nearly two-dozen offerings by the glass. Not only could our waiter speak knowledgeably to both wines, but unprompted, he quickly excused himself to retrieve the bottles and pour us a taste of both to help with our decision.

On a return visit a week later, both Clayton and one of her managers recognized us by face if not by name, and thanked us for coming back. The efforts might be small, but the payoff in making you feel welcome is huge. Goldie’s longs to be your neighborhood spot where everyone knows your name.
Of course, we come to bistros in search of a good meal. Goldie’s menu is tidy and compact, which gives the kitchen the ability to focus on doing a few things and doing them well. Half of the appetizers work on a seafood theme, and we opted for tuna tataki ($25) to kick off our first visit. The pencil-width slices of bluefin are superb and come lightly dressed with a ginger ponzu sauce straight out of your favorite Asian fusion restaurant. Crispy onion strings and herbs round out the dish.

On a second visit, we had hoped to try the bone marrow bruschetta, but were informed it had just sold out for the evening. We pivoted to the cheese and honey board ($16), served that evening with a whipped triple cream cheese and slivered apples to go with the whipped honey, crostini wedges, honeycomb and Parmesan crisps. We weren’t disappointed in this alternative, and if you’re in a dining party that can’t decide between something salty, sweet, creamy and tart, the cheese and honey board won’t let you down.

Entrees at Goldie’s stick mostly to the well-loved classics, and you won't need a dictionary to decipher any of the ingredients. Our prime filet ($48) was cooked perhaps a shade under what we asked for, but we couldn’t argue with its tenderness, or the rich and peppery au poivre sauce it’s served with. There’s also a New York strip on offer for $56, which along with the filet, makes up the priciest part of the menu.

Sliding a bit more down market in price doesn’t mean you’ll sacrifice flavor. The whimsically named “Here Fishy Fishy” ($33) presents a generous filet of red snapper that pairs brilliantly on a bed of couscous and side of charred heirloom tomatoes. If you’re in a mood to skip proteins, there’s also a zucchini bucatini pasta ($21) tossed with basil, dried mushrooms and parmesan that sparkles.
But possibly our favorite entree at Goldie’s is the “magic” chicken thighs ($28). Magic is the appropriate word, because the dish shows off some nifty sleight of hand in making different flavors pop out with each bite. There are the savory thighs themselves, pan-fried and glazed with a ginger guava sauce; meanwhile, mashed yams play harmony with mustard greens that provide a pungent and peppery counterpoint. You may never order a boring chicken breast ever again.

If you’re only going to offer one dessert, you damn well better make it a good one, and Goldie’s again delivers with its interpretation of the classic banana split ($15). The banana is indeed split lengthwise, then caramelized and laid atop a layer of banana custard. There’s whipped cream on top, and pistachios providing a nutty crunch. Vanilla wafers half-dipped in chocolate and topped with sea salt flakes temper the dish’s overly sweet tendencies.

Goldie’s facade is one of casual elegance, a restaurant that also wants to be your friend. Behind the scenes, the kitchen isn’t content to pump out one-note dishes and sprinkles medleys of flavor on every plate. And the staff’s welcoming nature never feels artificial or forced. Big money concepts and fad-chasing restaurants may garner a lot of the headlines, but Dallas is quietly reveling in a plethora of American-style neighborhood bistros that showcase great fare with a relaxed charm. Goldie’s is simply the latest addition, waiting to welcome us in and show us how it’s done.

Goldie’s, 9850 Walnut Hill Lane, No. 305. Tuesday – Thursday, 4–10 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 4–11 p.m.; Sunday, 4–10 p.m.